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Very few cycling garments are worn in the mall when trolling for a good time. Cycling sunglasses are an exception.

Tight cycling jerseys with three pockets across the back are seldom seen. Mall rats don’t choose cycling shoes with cleats- they look funny and it’s hard to keep the ghetto pants from falling off when you’re tapping along the tiles with your toes in the air. Somehow, I like that visual.

I haven’t seen too many pairs of bonafide cycling shorts there either. Mall enthusiasts wear their shorts and pants so low that I doubt anything made of cloth has ever contacted the groin proper. Bike shorts with that special chamois caressing them might shock them into questioning their sexual orientation.

But cycling sunglasses- yea, they’ll work.

So what makes them ‘cycling sunglasses’? I suppose the label.

But there are some features that make cycling sunglasses stand apart.

They have to be unbreakable, for example. That’s right, glass lens are ill-advised. But don’t despair- with all the revolutionary new plastics out there, you’ll never miss the heavy ole glass devils. And these plastics are tough, I’m telling you. So tough, they’ll protect you from a variety of road hazards.

Such as…

-little flying rocks
 -little flying bugs
 -moderate sized flying bugs
 -winds that will dry out your contact lenses
 -boogers from the guy ahead of you in the paceline
 -flying splinters if you're riding on old wood sidewalks in Virginia City
 

You get the picture.

They’ll even protect you from the second most damaging agent out there (after boogers)- namely UV rays.

I’ve got a pair of cycling sunglasses with interchangeable lenses. Dark lenses for sunny conditions, yellow lenses for overcast days when more contrast is needed, and clear lenses for dark times when hazard protection is needed, but light is at a premium.

I must admit that when I heard about interchangeable lenses I thought of ‘flip-up’ sunglasses. You know, the kind that nerd tourists wear to Disneyland.

I’ve noticed that when most products try to do more than one task, they do none of them with excellence. And they usually look dorky along with their mediocrity. Not so with the interchangeable-lens-cycling-sunglass!

The lenses snap in and out very firmly, so they’ll never fall apart. They look so ‘natural’ you’d swear they were engineered by Hollywood’s most renowned plastic surgeon. He’ll sell you a pair that look ‘perky’…and ‘well-rounded’.

But will they stay on?

Look no further than the winter Olympics! The skaters had their glasses (we’ll assume they were cycling glasses) on over the humiliating looking hood of their speed suits. What this did was effectively eliminate the advantage of having ears. And they still stayed on! So what’s the point?

The point is…even cyclists without ears can wear cycling sunglasses with confidence.

How about pricing?

If you’re one of those who think that the economy is really kickin butt because your wallet just keeps getting fatter and fatter, ‘Rudy Project’ or ‘Smith’ sunglasses can be had for a couple hundred bucks a pair.

If you wonder when all the good economic news is going to trickle down to affect you personally, follow my lead. I received a pair of glasses from Performance Bike for Christmas (Winter Solstice Day for you pagan infidels) that work great. They’re relatively inexpensive, they break wind, they provide UV protection, they bend but don’t break, they stay on even without the use of ears, and most importantly…

They look good at the mall with ghetto pants and skater shoes.

Ron Fritzke is a runner converted to cycling. His unique view of cycling apparel and accessories adds some humor to his reviews. You can read more of his opinionated drivel at http://www.cycling-review.com

Whether you’re shopping for a bike or just admiring them, the first part you notice is probably the bicycle frame.The frame is the heart of a bicycle, as well as its art.Including the basically triangular core structure that supports both seat and handlebars and the extensions that attach to the wheels, the color and the geometry of the bicycle frame not only affects the beauty of the bike, but its strength and speed as well.The pleasure and success you derive from bicycle riding will be strongly impacted by having the right frame for your physique and your purposes.

Naturally, your bicycle frame will take into dramatic account whether you ride primarily on roads or off-road.Not only are so-called mountain bike frames made of noticeably bigger “tubes,” they are made of more shock resistant materials, with stronger weldings. Road bike frames have a smaller triangular geometry and the main consideration in their material is its weight.Everything on a road bike is designed to keep the rider’s resistance to a minimum in order to promote fluency and speed, while a mountain bike is designed with the primary goal of shock absorption and maneuverability in mind alongside speed-influencing factors.

Even among these two main divisions, you will find major differences in bicycle frames.Road bikes used primarily for touring or recreational riding will have frames with a more relaxed geometry and more total horizontal spread front to back, while racing bikes will tighten that structure for a shorter front to back bike length.A tighter triangle and less distance between the bicycle frame and the tires acts to decrease the resistance of wind and road for a racer, as well as to increase the bike’s ability to respond to the quick, minute maneuverings road racing requires.

In addition, your unique body shape and weight will also affect what kind of bicycle frame is best for your comfort and accomplishment.Standard frame measurements, made along the seat tube of a frame, take into account the length of your legs, but the relationship of your torso length and arm length to the length of your legs is also extremely important to comfort on a bicycle, and the length of the top tube of the bicycle frame must also be examined.Two riders of identical height may need completely different bicycle frames.The best thing you can do is to shop at a bicycle store where knowledgeable riders earn their living and where you are allowed to try out a bicycle before buying it.

Alastair Hamilton is a successful writer who offers a truly unique depth of experience in competitive cycling. Reach further articles on bicycle frames at http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com, the hub of cycling information.

Mopeds demand systematic maintenance to prolong its useful life. Although maintenance is usually executed to increase the motorcycle’s lifetime, numerous maintenance routines likewise give a positive influence to safety and reliability. From changing oil to changing tyres, correct maintenance is a crucial part of owning a motorbike.

Changing Oil
Oil changes are crucial, especially if your moped has an air-cooled engine. Air cooled engines tend to generate more heat as opposed to water cooled engines, e.g. engines in cars and trucks. Motorcycles also run at very fast revolutions, and that can can promptly damage oil. Moped oil changes should be carried out every 300 to 500 miles. The oil should be replaced using a high quality oil that can take higher heat. In cooler regions, 10W40 motor oil performs comfortably. In hotter regions, 20W40 is ordinarily a more appropriate oil.

Brake and Throttle Cables
Over time, throttle and break lines stretch and may affect motorcycle safety and functionality. Regular oil will help keep the cables from tangling or prematurely stretching. Only a few drops of machine oil or WD40 at the points where the cables leave the sleeves and go into the the controls can assist in lubing the brake and throttle lines. Even though a good number of motorcycles have self-tightening lines, it is a good idea to have your lines have a once over with every oil change.

Bearings and Bolts
Bolts, as well as other types of scooter fasteners, need to be regularly checked for tautness. This job is frequently best carried out with each change of oil; nevertheless in odd situations you may want to do random checks to ensure that everything is tightened down properly.

Tyre and Suspension Maintenance
One should regularly examine the tyres for correct pressure level. As time passes, shock absorbers get wear and tear and might cause tyres to not have appropriate contact with the road surface. Worn tyres and shock absorbers compromise the safety of your motorbike and need to be exchanged.

Lastly it’s a great idea to go online to boost your understanding of motorbike maintenance - just type in associated key words in Google such as scooter roller weights to get information on the subject of scooter servicing.

Biking is a useful means to improve your aerobic capacity, economise financially, while helping in keeping the air clean and unpolluted. Bicycling doesn’t damage your muscles that jogging and working out in the gym can. Not only that, it’s pragmatic as one is able to get exercise by biking to work, or doing the shopping, so you don’t have to to put time aside for working out as nearly all other sorts of exercise impose on your schedule.

But what variety of cycle to buy? A bicycle that’s comfy for you as you’re riding, and has many gears to enable you to tackle inclines with general comfort - after all, not everyone lives in a completely flat area! One should be able to pick up your bike with comparative comfort as you will discover this is necessary sometimes, for instance up some stairs.

In addition, make sure you have decent add-ons for your bicycle : reliable cycle brake system parts, front and back light, bike mudguards, reflector lights, reflective jacket, helmet and strong lock. These will aid you in staying secure in bad light, and the bike out of reach from robbery. Ensure you lock your cycle in a somewhat public area.

Finally, it’s a good idea to invest some time into how to repair your cycle. You don’t need to be a bicycle repair master, but it’s handy if you can learn how to set the brake pads and brake cables as these oftentimes demand fine-tuning following heavy usage. Also ensure you keep the bicycle well oiled and the tyres pumped up to a reasonable pressure to make it that much easier to actually bike.. And it nearly goes without saying, be sensible on the roads - indicate with your arms while turning, and stay on the left-handside on all roads.

The ATV has gained huge popularity because of its versatility. It is included in many different outdoor activities like racing, hunting and camping. This has made way for many customizable features that you can add to your ATV.

Racing ATVs look very different from conventional ATVs that you may see in rural areas. They are usually customized with different wheels, shocks and exhaust systems. The wheels on a racing ATV are narrower to give it more speed and turning ability. The wheels are also upgraded to a lighter and stiffer aluminum alloy the reduce weight and handle impact from jumps. The shocks are one of the most important upgrades because there are many jumps on a typical course. The shocks need to give enough to absorb impact with minimal speed loss. They also must be stiff enough to maintain the vehicles integrity on tight corners. Loose shocks could result in a rollover if the turn is too tight. Many riders are constantly tweaking their shocks to find the perfect combination to maximize their speed and safety. The exhaust is simply made up of a more free flowing muffler and intake to move air through the engine much quicker. This altered exhaust results in more noise output, but it can significantly raise the torque of an ATV.

ATVs for hunting and camping are very similar overall. They have wide tires for good off-road traction. Hunters will sometime use a stricter muffler, so that the ATV is not so loud. Both types of ATVs will have extra storage compartments and rails on the front and back to tie down their gear. A large capacity fuel tank is always a good option for extended trips. Extra gas cans are also a common on such ATVs. One of the best options to ensure that you do not get stuck in the wilderness is a front mounted winch. This is primarily for dragging the ATV out of deep mud or sand in case it gets stuck. The winch cable can be fastened around a nearby tree, and it will pull the vehicle toward the tree.

To find out more great information about ATVs, visit http://atv-rider.info

Information gathered from stats and reports on convicted motorcycle thieves. As well as, from the victoms of motorcycle theft.

The market for stolen bikes right now is so big, it is rediculous! Most bikes get taken around 2:00-3:30 am when noone is up looking out the windows. The theives will first drive around and look for bikes they and/or their customers want. Then they will return with their van and three or four other guys to help throw the bike in the back of van. It is a one, two, three process taking no longer than 5 minutes. Once the theives have your bike, they take it home, pop the ignition, get a new ignition done. Get the bike stamped up through the junk yard, get a new salvage title, new numbers and that’s it.

Thieves are looking at: R1s, R6, CBR600. Looking at anything that is fast. Most thieves are into the fast Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki bike. Not the Harley, Buell, Triumph. Why? because that is the bike scene. The customer will tell the theif what they want. Most will charge $100 per cc of engine the bike has. The Hayabusa is $1500 on top. R6 will cost you $600.

Easiest place to snatch a bike is from an apartment complex. Thieves have cutters for all the high-end cable locks. A screw driver will pop any Kryptonite lock. People think that gated communties are safe. They are not. The keypad entry sequence is easy to compromise. A decoy will enter the complex and get the security guard to work with him while his accomplices take the bikes while the guard is distracted. The bikes and thieves are gone and the guard loses his job the next day.

The next easiest place to steal a bike is at hotels. Alot of people attend bike events and leave their bikes parked in a dark-ass corner. Thieves love this. This is not very smart. This is the first place they are going to look.

The next easiest place is the track. About 6000 bikes at these tracks. The bike owners will leave their bike to go watch the events. The thief is watching your bike and watching where you are at. Their accomplice will make sure you stay at the track while the thief takes your bike. Thieves communicate by Nextel and keep each other informed as to the best opporutnity to steal your bike.

The safest place to put your bike to prevent it from being stolen is inside your house or your garage. Thieves will not waste time trying to break into your house to get your bike. If you have it in a complex or a storage unit, Yes, they will get it. If it is in your garage, they will not try to take it. Not worth taking the chance to get shot for your bike.

When I lived in Sunnyvale, CA and owned my 1987 Kawasaki EX-500. I lived in an apartment complex. I had a car port. No garage. I had my bike locked to the support pole of the carport with a $80 high-end cable lock. I also had a $2 two-inch Masterlock on the front rotor of the bike. The Theives enter my complex with their pickup truck around 2:00 am. The bastards cut through the expensive cable lock with no problem at all. Do not waste your money on this crap. Next the thieves try cutting off the 2″ Masterlock on the front rotor. The bastards could not get a good angle and make enough noise to wake me. I look at and yell, “Your Busted.” They scatter like roaches. I call Sunnyvale’s finest, they catch the idiots speeding at 2:00 am down the expressway, find bolt cutters in the back. A clean bust. I go to court, the punks get sentenced, I get restitution and learn all the personal information on the theives. Go by where they live. Guess what? they live in a high-security condo complex. Go figure.

What have I learned from this:

1. Do not waste your money on expensive locks! — especially those crap cable locks.

2. Get a 2″ MasterLock and put it through your disk rotors. Those Kryptonite locks suck. Thieves make them so they can easily steal bikes.

3. Cover your bike. Out of sight, out of mind. If you see a van driving around your neighborhood at night, get the tags and report it.

4. The thieves that were after my bike could have easily picked the bike up once the cable was cut, despite the 2″ padlock still on the front rotor. I guess they were too stupid to realize this and paid for it by being gang raped in jail.

Contributing editor to Cycle Solutions
http://www.cyclesolutions.net